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What a vehicle history report shows, and the free checks to run first

A history report pulls records tied to the VIN: title brands, salvage and total-loss records, odometer readings, theft records, often past sale and auction listings, and accidents when they were reported. Run the free checks first (NICB for theft and total loss, the government recall lookup), then pay for the full report on the car you're serious about.

What a report usually includes

RecordWhy it matters
Title and brand historySalvage, rebuilt, flood or junk brands from any state, even if the current title is clean.
Total loss and salvageWhether an insurer wrote it off, or a salvage yard handled it.
Odometer readingsReadings over time. One that goes backwards suggests a rollback.
Theft recordsWhether it was reported stolen.
Sale and auction listingsPast ads and auction photos, sometimes showing damage.
Accidents and damageWhen they were reported to a source the report uses.

In the US, the core title data comes from NMVTIS, the federal system that states, insurers and salvage yards report to. Depth varies a lot from one car to the next, so check what the free preview shows before you pay.

What no report can tell you

  • Accidents nobody reported, such as one fixed for cash.
  • The car's mechanical condition today. That's what a pre-purchase inspection is for.
  • Complete maintenance history, unless the shops report it.
  • Canada-only history, for reports built on US data. For a car that's only been in Ontario, the UVIP is the official record.

Check the VIN on the car you're looking at

See where it was built and its model year, then check its title history for salvage, flood, odometer and theft records.

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Opens EpicVIN in a new tab. You see a free summary before paying anything. Best for vehicles with US history. Paid link: we earn a commission if you buy a report, at no extra cost to you.

No VIN yet? Ask the seller to text it to you before you drive out. A bad history saves you the trip.
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Free checks to run first

  1. Decode the VIN (the box below) to confirm the year and that the number is valid.
  2. NICB VINCheck: free theft and total-loss records from participating insurers, up to five searches a day.
  3. Recalls: NHTSA's lookup in the US, Transport Canada's database in Canada. Recall repairs are free at the dealer.

If the car survives those, it's worth paying for the full history before you hand over money.

Questions

Is a free VIN check enough?

Free checks catch theft, total losses and recalls. Title brand history, odometer readings and sale records usually need a full report.

Does a clean report mean the car is fine?

It means nothing serious was reported. Pair it with a mechanic's inspection.

Which report is best for a Canadian car?

For a car that's only been in Canada, a Canadian report and the provincial records are best. For a car with US history, a US title history fills the gap.

Sources

General information, not legal advice. Rules change, so check the official source before you rely on a detail.